Originally all tartan material was hand woven. Highland weavers experimented with local
dyes to create individual artisitc tartan designs from the very basic to the extremely complex. You may see a Highlander wearing
a plaid of one tartan, cadadh, or hose of another, a jacket of a third tartan, etc. Tartans ahd no individual meaning or connection
to a clan, but were instead worn for fashion, for show, or in most cases, for camouflage.
George
Buchanan wrote in 1581:
"the majority now in their dress prefer
a dark brown, imitation very nearly
the leaves of the heather, that when
lying upon the heath in the day,
they may not be discovered by
appearance of their clothes.".
It was not until the late 1700's,
when industrial weaving came to Scotland, that certain specific patterns became reproduced en masse. These popular tartans
were at first assigned numbers, then names of prominent clans, families, and towns. It was also at this time when the first
tailored kilts apeared. The feileadh-beag (little wrap) and the lower half of the feileadh-mor (great wrap, the belted plaid
described above) began its transformation into the tailored kilt of today. It has pleats sewn in and featured such as belt
loops, ribbon ties, and buttons for braces coming and going with changing fashion.
In the romantic era of the nineteenth century, the lore emerged. Authors such as James Logan, the Sobieski-Stuarts,
and Sir Walter Scott, popularized the notion that certain tartans have belonged to specific clans since ancient times. Their
claims have been disproved by historic research, but the myths they espoused are still with use today and are a part of the
fascinating history of the tartan. Queen Victoria and her love of the Highland myth, made the tartan popular south of the
Highlands into England as well.
Today, the tartan
kilt is the identifying symbol of the Scot in every nation where they have settled. Kilted lads are every persent at Scottish
gatherings throughout the U.S., Canada, Austrailia, and even South American and Japan. Formal killts are more popular than
ever for Highland weddings, and the casual kilts of the Tartan Army are recognized wherever Scottish football teams travel.
With the popularity of the kilt enjoying ever increasing heights, and historical re-enactment societies emerging all over
America, the history of Highland Dress is a topic of much interest.
