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UNDERSTANDING THE TARTAN
Originally all tartan material was hand woven. Highland weavers
experimented with local dyes to create individual artistic tartan designs,
from the very basic to the extremely complex. You may see a Highlander
wearing a plaid of one tartan, cadadh, or hose, of another, a jacket of a third
tartan, etc. Tartans had no individual meaning or connection to a clan,
but were instead worn for fashion, for show, or in most cases, for camouflage.
George Buchanan wrote in 1581:
| "the majority now in their dress prefer a
dark brown, imitating very nearly the leaves of the heather, that when lying
upon the heath in the day, they may not be discovered by the appearance of their
clothes." |
It was not until the late 1700's, when industrial weaving came to
Scotland, that certain specific patterns became reproduced en masse. These
popular tartans were at first assigned numbers, then names of prominent clans,
families, and towns. It was also at this time when the first tailored kilts
appeared. The feileadh-beag (little wrap), lower half of the feileadh-mor
(great wrap, the belted plaid described above), began its transformation
into the tailored kilt of today, with pleats sewn in and featured such as
belt loops, ribbon ties, and buttons for braces coming and going with changing
fashion.
In the romantic era of the nineteenth century, the lore emerged. Authors
such as James Logan, the Sobieski-Stuarts, and Sir Walter Scott, popularized
the notion that certain tartans have belonged to specific clans since
ancient times. Their claims have been disproved by historic research, but
the myths they espoused are still with us today and are a part of the
fascinating history of the tartan. Queen Victoria, and her love of the
Highland myth, made the tartan popular south of the Highlands, into England
as well.
Today, the tartan kilt is the identifying symbol of the Scot in every nation
where they have settled. Kilted lads are ever present at Scottish gatherings
throughout the U.S., Canada, Australia, even South America and Japan. Formal
kilts are more popular than ever for Highland weddings, and the casual kilts
of the Tartan Army are recognized wherever Scottish football teams travel.
With the popularity of the kilt enjoying ever increasing heights, and
historical re-enactment societies emerging all over America, the history of
Highland Dress is a topic of much interest.
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| MacThomas Ancient Tartan |
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MacThomas Modern Tartan |
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